Homing Pigeons For Sale

Why Buy Pigeons From Us?                                                                         

We are offering Homing pigeons of racing quality. We don't have any paticular strain nor do we offer pedigrees. I am not claiming that these pigeons are all champion racers, but I do claim that these pigeon families have won races and diplomas for me.
I have spent a bunch of money buying birds online and at auctions. I have even bought race winners. I have found my best breeders are pigeons from other guys' race teams that were no longer of use to them. I am returning to the sport after 25 years of not flying. I have had to buy birds to build a team. I am disappointed in the many over priced birds with long pedigrees that were supposedly race winners and breeders of winners.
 The most money I have spent was for one 500 mile multi winning cock. I bought from an internet pigeon auction website. This bird has not produced a single youngster to even make it in the clock. When I bought this bird he arrived at my house with no papers to prove that he was ever even in a race. When I contacted the seller he said he would work on getting me a copy of a race sheet but after a year I gave up waiting on that paper. I am embarrassed to admit how much money I actually paid for this pigeon. My point is that spending alot of money hasn't been the answer for me. At the end of the 2 young bird seasons my race and diploma winners are from pigeons I paid less than 50.00 for. I am selling racing pigeons from my race team that are just to good to dispose of. I wish I could keep all of my birds but space doesn't permit me to have a whole lot of these wonderful animals.

Keeping pigeons is really a lot of fun. Racing them is even more exciting. They can be very tame and friendly. They (Domestic) are free from diseases that affect humans. Wild pigeons carry diseases because they live unsanitary lives. Watching them fly around the house, high in the sky has an appeal to most people. My neighbors comment to me how they love watching my birds fly about. People put bird feeders in their yards so that they can the watch birds come and go.
 First, you have to make a loft or a coup. Pigeon fanciers prefer to call their pigeon house a loft. A pigeon fancier is someone who likes to keep a colony or flock of pigeons. Just as if you bought some fish and brought them home, you need to have the fish tank all set up for their arrival.
 The size and type of loft will depend on how you will be involved, and how many birds you will be keeping. If you will be racing, you will need a racing loft. If you will be keeping a few pigeons for a hobby then you can build the appropriate sized loft. I want to concentrate on the flying pigeon loft. This is one where the birds will be let out to fly.
 The loft should be dry. This is the primary concern. The secondary concern is the loft should be secure so that cats, dogs, racoons, rats, children and other intruders can not get into and harm your birds. Thirdly the birds need air. If you put them in a box with little or no fresh air they will not be healthy. Your loft can be anything from the size of a shopping mall to the a size of a doll house.

When Keeping homing pigeons, you will need to provide them with an appropriate home. There are a few things you should consider when building your homing pigeon loft. Some of these include placement, size, and flooring. This article will give you a few tips for building homing pigeon houseMore...... 

   Have you found a pigeon? need help? click here  

Racing Homing Pigeons

Pigeon racing is a sport involving the release of specially trained racing pigeons, which then return to their homes over a carefully measured distance. The timeit takes the animal to cover the specified distance is measured and
the animals' rate of travel is calculated and compared with all of the other pigeons in the race to determine which animal returned at the highest rate of speed. Racing Homing Pigeons is a fun and exciting hobby. Getting involved can be as simple as owning a couple of birds to having hundreds of these small athletes. The cost can be small to large. I would caution you against jumping in too deep too fast. These birds require your time and energy Daily. To be competitive you will need to study about health and training. If this is your first time keeping pigeons, start small. Remember also they are very prolific. If you only have one pair and they are not separated you will soon be over run with them.
                              

Homing Pigeon

Many times the question has been asked, 'How do pigeons find their way home - what is the secret of the homing instinct?' It seems more appropriate to call it a faculty because it is something which can be developed. For instance, birds can be moved from one loft location to another, settled in and then raced successfully to their new home.

The homing ability of pigeons has been the basis of discussion and experiment over the years, but most fanciers seem agreed that when the birds are released they orientate themselves by the sun, then set off in the correct direction for their home lofts.

One theory put forward was that birds pickup reaction from the earth's magnetic field and home along this; but this was discounted in an experiment by Dr G.V.T.Matthews of Cambridge about twenty years ago. He mounted very small but powerful magnets on the wing butts of pigeons, the magnets being arranged so that they totally disturbed the magnetic field. But although the birds took considerably longer, they still homed.

Fog and heavy cloud will slow birds down on their route, this giving added weight to the theory that they orientate by the sun. Yet surprisingly, the best flying days seem to be when there is broken blue sky and a slight wind; on very clear sunny days with the air still and with high temperatures, the birds seem to find the going really tough. On such days young birds are very easily lost from the loft itself. Electric storms also have an effect on the homing of pigeons. In fact some birds delayed by such a storm have been known to be absent from their loft for as long as six to twelve months.

In other words, the question of how pigeons find their way home remains a puzzle. If anyone ever finds the answer, the whole face of the sport could be changed. 

How to Care for a Stray, Lost Racing Homing Pigeon

How to Care for a Stray, Lost Racing Homing Pigeon   Water is necessary before all else : Most lost birds are hungry and thirsty. Water is necessary before all else. Since pigeons drink by suction, any water container should be at least 1 in. (2.5 cm) deep. An open container, i.e., a dish, an old margarine container tub, etc., is best. While a thirsty bird may drink immediately, it also may not. A bird which has gone without water for a while is sometimes a bit less than itself. It may be so exhausted, it doesn't even realise that water is in front of it, especially if the water container you use is different from what it is familiar with. A trick I've often used is to trickle a few drops of water from on high into the container to make a splashing sound. When they hear that, most birds will invariably head to drink. If a bird looks really exhausted, Gatorade or other proprietary sports drink may be added to the water. A teaspoon or two per cup (250 ml) of water will help replenish electrolytes   What do I feed the pigeon : Pigeons are grain eaters. While park pigeons will eat bread, most domestic birds have been raised on a multi-grain mixture and have never seen a slice of it. In fact, they would likely ignore it as possible food. Instead of bread, you might try feeding them something else from around the house. Popcorn (maize), rice, split peas, barley, buckwheat (kasha), canary seed, etc., are all good first options to feed a lost bird with. These grains should not be cooked or popped but fed raw. Water should also be provided since pigeons normally drink immediately after eating.   Should you have to provide food for the pigeon for more than a few days while you are waiting on finding its owner or in an attempt to build up the pigeons strength so it can recover to make the journey home, then it is strongly advised that you try and obtain a good healthy and balanced feed. Any racing or show pigeon fancier or your local pet shop can supply a suitable pigeon grain mix.   Homing Pigeons are continually asked to recommend a good pigeon feed for those people who are kind enough to look after the lost and found racing pigeons, so this season we have put together our own quality blended mix of pigeon food and made it available to purchase in small quantity bag sizes. The smallest size is 500 grams which can feed 1 pigeon for up to 10 days. For further information on the different bag sizes, delivery and on how to order a bag can be found at the : Homing Pigeons Shop   What should I keep the pigeon in : Any container that a dog or cat can't get into will be fine. An old bird cage will hold the pigeon for a day or so with no problem, as will a cardboard box - a screen on top of such a box is better than simply closing the flaps since there will then be enough light for the bird to see to eat and drink.

Reward offered for €150k homing pigeon

Welcome to Lyndhurst Homing Pigeon Club!

Upcoming for 2015:
-LCM Band Race-LCM IS THE FASTEST GROWING YOUNG BIRD RACE IN THE U.S.
-LCM Auction-THE BIGGEST YOUNG BIRD AUCTION ON THE EAST COAST
-Alfonso Abenante Memorial 3-Bird Derby-THE LONGEST RACE OF THE YEAR ONTHE LONGEST DAY OF THE YEAR
-Hoboken 1-Bird Derby-ORGANIZED IN 1922 – OUR 93rd YEAR!!!
-LCM Yearling Band Race-LCM IS THE FASTEST GROWING YB RACE IN THE U.S.NOW LET’S MAKE IT THE FASTEST GROWING YEARLING RACE
For additional information please go to the upcoming events folder or email us at lyndhurstpigeon@gmail.com

Double Widowhood Part 3

The last point I discussed was just prior to training the old birds for racing. It is imperative that the young birds be weaned as soon as possible. Only then will we see the dramatic boost in health that we are looking for. I will have all of my young birds out of the loft three weeks prior to the first race. The old birds will have been exercising for at least three to four weeks before I actually begin to train them. For me this training for the first Old Bird race takes place at a minimum of three weeks prior to the first race. Normally, I will take just the Cock birds because the hens have either just been separated or are ready to be separated that week. My practice is to go only about 16 or 20 miles on a very nice day. At this time of the year you certainly do not want to hurt the pigeons by over extending their muscles. Also, if the weather is too cold I will consider taking them out later or wait until the next day. This caution comes from experience. I well remember jumping the gun one year due to my excitement at playing widowhood and getting the widowers out for a club toss on a rather dubious day. The weather turned for the worse, I felt that the trucker being an experienced pigeon flyer would bring them back. Needless to say, the day turned out disastrous and even my earliest arrivals were cold and wet. All form was lost in the loft and it took a long time before it started to return. Armed with this vivid memory of twenty years ago, I now proceed slowly and carefully with a little more thought to the oncoming race season.

After the separated hens have been on their own for a week to recuperate, I will include them on all tosses. Each time they return, they are allowed to go back to their nest and then I carefully return them to their own section. In the three week training period, I will try to toss both sexes at least thirteen to fifteen times. The emphasis is not on distance, but rather repetitions. Most of the tosses will be from 30 to 40 miles with only a few further than this. Of course I will continue with the exercise around the loft and adjust the training according to my observations. For instance, if the flying exercise time around the loft drops off dramatically then I will discontinue training and exercising until I find out what is wrong. Sometimes it’s just a couple of days rest that they need and they are back to their normal exercise time. They should be constantly moving in the sky, darting here and there, landing momentarily and then off again. Thirty minutes at this time of the year is more than enough. I try to keep the birds to a routine so as not to upset their internal clock. Therefore, if I toss in the morning, then I will exercise them at their normal time in the evening.

Since I do not have a partner, training is a little more difficult. After crating both the hens and cocks in separate baskets, I then make sure that the only trap open is where the nest boxes are kept. On occasions I will allow the hens into this section first by letting them go a shorter distance. I don’t feel that it is critical. If I am fortunate enough to be at home when they arrive, then I will allow them in the open doors. It is a sight to see them pitch from the air and swish into their box. Over the last 20 years that I have flown widowhood, I have seldom been home when they arrived, but I can assure you that it has not adversely affected my results. Usually, by the time I return home the cocks and hens are in their respective nest boxes and are crouched over the bowl. At this time, I carefully remove the hen to her own section which is right next door . There is a solid partition between the sections and the hens loft is fitted with perches only while on the cock side there are only nest boxes. Once the hen is removed I turn the bowl over and close off the half section which contains the bowl. I like the birds to calm down and rest for it is the resting phase which is one of the most important factors in racing double widowhood. Some fanciers spoil this particular time by returning to the loft too many times or keeping the hens beside the cocks without a slid partition or allowing the sexes together too often for too long. Try at all costs to avoid these situations. If it is a particularly nice day then set a warm bath inside for both of the sexes as this tends to help calm them down and rest. After the birds have been trained for their targeted thirteen or fifteen tosses then they should be race ready.

Our fist race is about 130 miles which is anywhere from a two and a half hour flight to three hours. If your first race is longer, then I would definitely increase the number of tosses because you want to make sure that they handle the time on the wing without hurting themselves for the rest of the year.

We will all readily agree that medicating is often a double edged sword. How much are you giving up in the way of natural resistance and good healthy bacteria in order to achieve the desired effect on unwanted bacteria? Over the years I have had the opportunity to experiment using different amounts of medication varying from using nothing to a fixed weekly programme. From experience my worst year ever was when I decided to treat the birds very naturally. ( homeopathically). Likewise the other extreme does not work either and those lofts who are heavy medicators soon succumb to the stress of over medicating. Where does this leave us?- in the middle. ” All things in moderation.”

During the first week of training, I generally treat against trichomoniasis for five days with either Emtryl or Ridzol. Make sure that they receive the right amount – one teaspoon per gallon for the entire five day period. Thanks to the training of Dr.G. Chalmers, I am now able to check faecal samples for either worms or coccidiosis. Neither have been a problem in the past as I watch very carefully for any changes in the loft. If the droppings on your birds were off then I would strongly suggest seeking a reputable Pigeon vet to give you advice.

If the widowers are exercising freely and are training well then this is the extent of the medication I administer before the first race. However, if the birds are not willingly exercising prior to the first race then you have problems. A sure sign of a respiratory problem is if during training, as soon as the birds are released, they circle and circle and circle. Also, if you are lucky enough to be present as the trainers are landing then observe very closely and look for the following tell tale signs. Upon arrival do they open their beaks wide.. almost as if they are yawning? Do they rub their nostrils ( beak ) on their wings? If the weather is cool, do they land with their beaks open and panting? If you answered yes to any of these then you may certainly have a respiratory problem. What should you do? For the next ten days I would rest the birds and place them on a medication programme consisting of an anti-tricho drug, Emtryl or Flagyl or Ridzol etc. plus an anti-respiratory drug combination( Tylosin and Doxycycline). Make sure you use an anti-tricho drug that you have not used yet this year. Trichomoniasis is an opportunistic bacteria and quite often waits for a little stress on the birds and then it opens the door for a secondary infection such as respiratory.

EggBound

Egg binding, or the obstruction of the uterus or oviduct by an egg, is a common problem seen in female birds. Since it can occur in a female bird, even if a mate is not present, unmated pet birds can also experience this problem. Egg binding can be life-threatening, especially in the smaller species such as finches, budgies, lovebirds and cockatiels.
Most companion birds lay eggs every 24 – 48 hours during their laying cycle, but variability in egg transit time can make it difficult to know when a problem is occurring.

A variety of things may cause egg binding. One of the most common causes of egg binding is an all-seed diet because it is very low in calcium as well as other essential vitamins and minerals. Other causes include obesity, lack of exercise, oversized or mal-formed eggs, excessive egg laying, oviduct infection or damage, heredity and senility are all causes of egg binding.

Egg formation takes approximately 24-25 hours. If an egg remains in the oviduct for an abnormal length of time, a number of problems may result. These problems tend to be most severe in the smaller species. If an egg remains lodged in the pelvic canal, it can interfere with blood circulation in the pelvis and to the kidneys. The egg can interfere with urination and defecation, leading to metabolic disturbances. The egg can press against the wall of the oviduct, causing it to die and rupture.

Clinical Signs
Presenting clinical signs vary with the individual bird. A hen may appear depressed, have an abnormally wide stance, and make repeated straining motions. Some birds may be puffed yet perching, while others may be found on the bottom of the cage. Some birds may even be found dead on the floor of the cage or aviary without any previous warning. Droppings may be larger than normal or no droppings may be passed and the vent may be dilated and swollen.

Diagnosis of Egg Binding
Many birds have a history of prolonged egg laying, while others may have never laid an egg before. If you suspect that a bird is egg bound, it should be examined by an avian veterinarian immediately. In some birds, gentle examination of the abdomen reveals the presence of an egg. It is often necessary to radiograph the bird to determine the size, position and number of eggs present. If the egg shell is not present, ultrasound may be necessary to reveal the presence of an egg.

Darkening System Pre and Post Race Season

Two weeks before the first race, I make another change and put the birds on sixteen hours of light. The birds wake to a natural sunrise, but I turn lights on in the coop with a timer and then shut them off at 10:00 p.m. with the timer. This is the easiest part of the system, since the timer can take care of the lights without any interference from me.

Adding the extra lights, lengthens the day for the birds and tricks them into believing that it is still summer time. Consequently, the birds do not begin to prepare for winter as they do on the natural system. They don’t need to, since they have already gone through the body moult.

I leave the birds together for the first race and then seperate them into hens and cocks on the evening after the first race. I continue to train the birds several times a week, but I have to switch to afternoon training tosses. Having the birds in two groups requires that someone be at home who can close the front to the hen loft and open the front to the cock loft so that the birds don’t end up in the same pen.

By this time, school has started so I train as soon as I get home from work and my kids help me out by switching the loft fronts for me. It is difficult, but I can usually work two tosses in each week and still manage to get to several soccer games and practices with my kids.

The Race Season
Once seperated, the hens and cocks get let out at seperate times to fly around the loft. If I don’t take them on a training toss, I let them out to fly around the loft. Most days they will take off and fly for up to an hour before returning to the loft to eat. I still feed just once a day after they have flown or been trained. I don’t let the birds fly on Friday or do training tosses on that day.

I again get to spend a lot of time with the birds as they eat and drink. I continue to clean the lofts almost every day. For me it is easier to do it regularly and clean up just a little than to let it all build up and have to really work to get it clean. It pays off so much in the better health of the birds.

On Friday afternoon, I let the hens and cocks get together for about an hour before I crate them to go to the club. I make sure the birds eat and drink before I crate them. I adjust the feed depending on what the conditions for the race are supposed to be. If it is going to be a harder race, I feed more heavily. For an easier race, I feed less.

Making sure the birds get the right feed at the right time during the race week is a skill you have to learn. Every race is different. The weather, the temperature, the wind, all make a difference on the condition of the birds when they return to the loft. How I feed the birds, has a big effect on how the birds recover from a race and how they prepare for the next one. Just like an athlete has to be careful with his diet, I have to prepare my flying athletes to be ready to do their best.

Usually I start with light food immediately after a race and then increase the amount of protein on Monday through Wednesday. Peas and corn have a lot of protein in them which helps to build muscle, but it won’t help to feed it on Friday right before a race. By then, it does not have time to digest properly. On Thursday and Friday, I feed less protein and more carbohydrates. This provides the energy the pigeons need for the race.